Here’s what I tell every person who asks me about visiting Puglia without a car: it’s completely doable, but you need to be strategic about where you stay.
I haven’t been to Puglia yet (it’s next on my Italy list), but I’ve planned dozens of car-free Puglia itineraries for families and couples. The secret? Pick the right base town and embrace what makes train travel in Italy special – you actually get to relax and watch the coastline instead of stressing about parking.
Let me show you exactly how to do this. This post contains affiliate links.
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Can You Really Visit Puglia Without a Car?
Yes, but you need to adjust your expectations and choose train-connected towns as your bases. Puglia without a car means focusing on the coastal cities and baroque towns that have good rail connections. You’ll trade countryside flexibility for stress-free travel and the ability to drink all the wine you want.
Here’s the honest truth: Puglia is easier to visit without a car than Tuscany. The coastal train line runs from Bari down through Polignano, Monopoli, Fasano, and continues to Brindisi and Lecce. Trains are frequent, cheap (€3-10 for most trips), and reliable.
What you’ll miss: the trulli towns of Valle d’Itria (Alberobello, Locorotondo, Cisternino), countryside masserie stays, and remote beaches. But you can book day tours to see the trulli towns, and the train-connected beach towns are stunning.
The biggest advantage of skipping the car? No ZTL fines, no parking stress, no rental insurance confusion, and you can enjoy aperitivo without worrying about driving back to your hotel.
Best Base Towns in Puglia Without a Car
These are the towns that actually work for car-free travel. They all have train stations, walkable historic centers, and good restaurants.
Lecce – The Best Overall Base
Lecce is hands-down the easiest and most rewarding place to base yourself in Puglia without a car. This baroque city is walkable, train-connected to everywhere, and packed with restaurants, churches, and local life.
The train station is a 15-minute walk from the historic center (or €10 taxi). From Lecce, trains go to Otranto (40 minutes), Brindisi (30 minutes), Bari (2 hours), and Gallipoli (40 minutes).
The city itself deserves 2-3 days of exploration. Piazza del Duomo at sunset, the Roman amphitheater, aperitivo on Via Palmieri – you won’t be bored.
Best for: Couples who want city energy, food lovers, baroque architecture fans, and anyone using Brindisi Airport.
Polignano a Mare – The Most Scenic
Polignano a Mare sits on dramatic cliffs above turquoise water and is one of the most photogenic towns in Puglia. It’s tiny, walkable, and right on the train line from Bari.
The train station is about a 10-minute walk uphill to the old town (doable with luggage, but pack light). Trains to Bari run every 30-60 minutes (30 minutes, €3.50).
The town itself is small – you can walk end to end in 15 minutes. But that’s the charm. You’re here for the beach (Lama Monachile), the sunset from the cliff edge, and the restaurant scene.
Best for: Couples wanting romance and Instagram moments, anyone who prioritizes beach over city, shorter trips (2-3 nights max).
Monopoli – The Most Authentic
Monopoli gives you everything Polignano offers but with more space, lower prices, and fewer tourists. It’s a working fishing port with a beautiful old town, sandy beaches, and excellent restaurants.
The train station is a 10-minute walk from the old town. Trains run frequently to Bari (45 minutes, €4.80) and south toward Brindisi.
The town has actual neighborhoods beyond the tourist center. You’ll see Italian families doing their shopping, kids playing in piazzas, and locals at the beach clubs.
Best for: Families who want beach access without tourist chaos, travelers who value authenticity, anyone staying 4+ nights.
Bari – The Underrated City Base
Bari is a real Italian city – gritty, authentic, and surprisingly compelling. Most people skip it, but it’s actually the best transportation hub in Puglia and has fantastic food.
The old town (Bari Vecchia) is atmospheric with winding streets where grandmothers still make orecchiette pasta by hand. The lungomare (waterfront promenade) is perfect for sunset walks.
Bari Centrale station connects you to everywhere: Polignano (30 minutes), Monopoli (45 minutes), Alberobello (90 minutes with transfer), Lecce (90 minutes), Matera (90 minutes).
Best for: Travelers who like urban energy, foodies, anyone flying into Bari Airport, shorter trips where you want maximum day trip flexibility.
Best Towns for Families Without a Car
Families need walkable towns with beaches, playgrounds, and restaurants that welcome kids. Monopoli wins here, with Polignano as a close second.
Why Monopoli is Perfect for Families:
The town has multiple beaches within walking distance. Cala Porta Vecchia has calm, shallow water perfect for young kids. Porto Vecchio beach has restaurants and bathrooms.
The historic center is stroller-friendly with wide streets (unusual for Italian old towns). Kids can run around in Piazza Garibaldi without you stressing about cars.
Restaurants are family-friendly. Italian culture embraces kids at dinner, and you’ll see local families eating out with toddlers at 9 PM.
Accommodation tip: Look for apartments near the train station or Cala Porta Vecchia. Hotels in the old town have too many stairs for families with young kids and strollers.
Sample 7-Day Puglia Itinerary for Families:
Days 1-4: Monopoli
- Day 1: Arrive via Bari Airport, train to Monopoli, settle in
- Day 2: Beach day at Cala Porta Vecchia
- Day 3: Morning exploring old town, afternoon at Porto Vecchio beach
- Day 4: Day trip to Polignano a Mare (20 min train, €3)
Days 5-7: Lecce
- Day 5: Train to Lecce (1 hour), explore Piazza del Duomo
- Day 6: Day trip to Otranto for beaches (40 min train)
- Day 7: Morning in Lecce, train back to Bari Airport
This gives kids beach time, city exploration, and only one hotel change. The train rides are short enough that kids won’t get restless.
What About Alberobello with Kids?
You can do Alberobello as a day trip from Bari or Monopoli. Take the train to Bari, switch to the regional train to Alberobello (90 minutes total). It’s a long morning but kids usually love the trulli houses.
Book a private tour from Bari if your kids are young or you don’t want the train logistics. €200-250 for 4 people including transportation and a guide is worth it.
Best Towns for Couples Without a Car
Couples want romance, wine, and zero stress. Lecce or Polignano are your best bets, depending on whether you prefer city vibes or beach vibes.
Why Lecce is Perfect for Couples:
The baroque architecture is stunning. Wander the streets, stumble into churches, get lost intentionally.
The aperitivo scene is excellent. Piazza Sant’Oronzo fills up at sunset with people drinking Aperol Spritz and local wine.
You can walk everywhere. No taxis needed, no Uber confusion, just strolling from restaurant to wine bar to gelato shop.
Accommodation tip: Stay in the historic center near Piazza del Duomo. Boutique hotels and B&Bs in restored palazzos are surprisingly affordable (€100-150/night).
Why Polignano is Perfect for Couples:
The sunset cliff views are ridiculously romantic. Stand on the belvedere and watch the sky turn pink over the Adriatic.
The restaurant scene is intimate. Book Grotta Palazzese (the famous restaurant in a cave) if you’re celebrating something special. Other excellent options: Antiche Mura, Pescaria, Osteria dei Mulini.
The beach at Lama Monachile is small but stunning. Get there early, rent chairs, and spend the day swimming and reading.
Accommodation tip: Book a room with a sea view. You’re paying for the views in Polignano, so get your money’s worth.
Sample 7-Day Puglia Itinerary for Couples:
Days 1-3: Polignano a Mare
- Day 1: Arrive via Bari Airport, train to Polignano, afternoon exploring
- Day 2: Beach day at Lama Monachile, sunset from the cliffs
- Day 3: Day trip to Monopoli (15 min train), lunch at the port
Days 4-7: Lecce
- Day 4: Train to Lecce (90 min), afternoon exploring Piazza del Duomo
- Day 5: Walking tour of baroque churches, evening aperitivo
- Day 6: Day trip to Otranto (40 min train), beach and lunch
- Day 7: Morning in Lecce, train to Brindisi Airport via Brindisi (30 min)
This gives you beach romance, city culture, and time to actually relax.
How to Get Around Puglia Without a Car
Regional trains are your primary transportation. They’re cheap, frequent along the coast, and way less stressful than driving.
Key Train Routes:
- Bari to Polignano: 30 min, €3.50, trains every 30-60 min
- Bari to Monopoli: 45 min, €4.80, trains every hour
- Bari to Lecce: 90 min, €8-12, trains every 1-2 hours
- Lecce to Otranto: 40 min, €4-6, trains every 2 hours
- Lecce to Brindisi: 30 min, €4-7, trains every 30-60 min
Buy tickets on the Trenitalia app or at the station. Don’t forget to validate paper tickets in the yellow machines before boarding (or you’ll get fined).
When to Book a Private Transfer:
Private transfers make sense for:
- Airport to first hotel (especially with luggage or late arrival)
- Hotel changes (€50-80 between towns, easier than train with bags)
- Day trips to trulli towns (€150-200 for half-day tour including driver/guide)
I usually recommend taking a transfer from the airport to your first hotel, using trains for day trips, and then another transfer to the airport at the end. This saves you from dragging luggage on trains while still keeping costs reasonable.
Day Tours from Your Base:
Since you can’t drive to Alberobello, Locorotondo, or countryside masserie, book a day tour:
- Trulli towns tour from Bari/Monopoli: €60-80/person, 6-8 hours, includes Alberobello, Locorotondo, and lunch
- Valle d’Itria wine tour: €80-100/person, includes 2-3 wineries and lunch
- Matera day trip from Bari: €70-90/person, 8 hours including transportation and guide
These tours pick you up at your hotel and drop you back. You see the countryside highlights without car rental hassle.
What You’ll Miss Without a Car (And What You Won’t)
Let’s be honest about the trade-offs.
You’ll Miss:
- Countryside masserie stays – These restored farmhouses are magical but usually require a car to access
- Valle d’Itria flexibility – Driving between Alberobello, Cisternino, and Locorotondo at your own pace
- Remote beaches – The most secluded coves need a car
- Spontaneous exploring – Can’t just drive down a random road to see where it goes
You Won’t Miss:
- ZTL fines – Limited traffic zones in historic centers cost €80-120 if you drive in accidentally
- Parking stress – Finding parking in Polignano or Ostuni is a nightmare in summer
- Gas prices – €1.80/liter adds up quickly
- Navigation confusion – Italian road signs are notoriously unclear
- Rental car return stress – No rushing back to the airport to return the car on time
Honestly? For a first Puglia trip focused on the coast and baroque towns, you’re not missing that much. You can see trulli towns on a day tour. The train-connected beaches are beautiful. And the money you save on car rental can go toward better hotels or more dinners out.
Sample Day Trips from Each Base Town
Day Trips from Lecce (No Car):
Otranto (40 min train, €4-6): Gorgeous coastal town with castello, beach, and lunch by the harbor
Gallipoli (40 min train, €5-7): Island old town, fish market, beach clubs
Brindisi (30 min train, €4-7): Roman columns, harbor promenade, good for a half-day
Galatina (20 min train, €3): Baroque churches and local pastry shops
Day Trips from Polignano/Monopoli (No Car):
Each other (15 min train, €3): Explore both towns
Bari (30-45 min train, €3.50-4.80): Bari Vecchia old town, orecchiette pasta-making
Conversano (20 min train from Monopoli, €3): Hilltop town with castle, worth half a day
Alberobello (train + transfer or private tour): Book a tour for trulli experience
Day Trips from Bari (No Car):
Matera (90 min train, €5-8): UNESCO sassi cave dwellings – absolutely worth it
Polignano a Mare (30 min train, €3.50): Perfect for a beach day
Trani (40 min train, €4-6): Seaside cathedral, harbor, fewer tourists
Alberobello (90 min with transfer): Doable but book a tour for easier logistics
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you explore Puglia without renting a car?
Yes. Base yourself in train-connected towns like Lecce, Polignano a Mare, or Monopoli. You’ll miss countryside masserie and Valle d’Itria flexibility, but you can visit trulli towns on day tours.
What is the best base in Puglia without a car?
Lecce is the best overall base – it’s walkable, has excellent train connections, and you can spend 2-3 days exploring the city itself. For beach focus, choose Monopoli (families) or Polignano a Mare (couples).
How do you get around Puglia without a car?
Regional trains connect all major coastal towns for €3-12 per trip. Book private transfers for airport connections (€50-120) and day tours to trulli towns (€60-100/person).
Is Puglia worth visiting without a car?
Absolutely. The coastal towns, baroque cities, and beaches are accessible by train. You’ll miss countryside exploring, but you’ll save money and stress. Book a day tour if you want to see Alberobello.
Can you visit Alberobello without a car?
Yes, but it requires a train transfer in Bari (90 minutes total) or booking a private tour (€60-80/person). The tour is easier and includes a guide.
Which is better without a car – Lecce or Polignano a Mare?
Lecce is better for longer stays (4+ nights) with more day trip options. Polignano is better for short romantic stays (2-3 nights) focused on beach and scenery.
How much does a private transfer cost in Puglia?
Airport to hotel: €50-120 depending on distance. Between towns: €50-80. Day tours with driver/guide: €150-250 for 4-6 hours.
Where to Stay: Specific Recommendations
Best Hotels in Lecce (No Car Needed):
Patria Palace Hotel – Historic center location, rooftop terrace, €120-180/night
Risorgimento Resort – Boutique luxury in palazzo, €150-250/night
Suite 68 – Affordable B&B near Piazza del Duomo, €80-120/night
Best Hotels in Polignano a Mare (No Car Needed):
Covo dei Saraceni – Boutique hotel with sea views, €180-300/night
Don Ferrante Dimore di Charme – Restored historic building, €150-250/night
B&B Le Stagioni – Budget-friendly near train station, €70-100/night
Best Hotels in Monopoli (No Car Needed):
Palazzo Indelli – Restored palazzo in old town, €100-160/night
Don Ferrante Monopoli – Sea-view rooms, beach access, €120-200/night
Masseria San Domenico – If you want ONE night at a masseria, this one offers shuttle service, €300-500/night
All of these are walkable from train stations (or a short €10 taxi ride). Book through Booking.com or directly with the hotels.
Bottom Line: Should You Skip the Car?
Skip the car if: You’re focusing on coastal towns and baroque cities, you’re traveling with young kids, you want to drink wine without driving stress, or you’re uncomfortable driving in Italy.
Rent the car if: You want countryside masserie stays, you’re visiting Valle d’Itria trulli towns extensively, you need maximum flexibility, or you’re staying 10+ days and want to cover the entire region.
For most first-time Puglia visitors, going car-free is actually the smarter choice. You’ll see the highlights, save money on rental/gas/parking, and avoid the stress of Italian driving. Book a day tour to Alberobello if you want the trulli experience.
The train-connected towns of Puglia – Lecce, Polignano, Monopoli, Bari – are where the best restaurants, beaches, and authentic Italian life happen anyway. You’re not settling for second-best by skipping the car. You’re just seeing Puglia differently.
And honestly? After 17 trips to Italy, some of my best travel memories are train rides along the coast with a glass of wine, watching the countryside roll by, not worrying about where to park.
When I finally make it to Puglia (after finishing my Sicily house renovation), I’ll probably skip the car for my first trip too.
Ready to plan your car-free Puglia trip? Check out my guide to Puglia airports to figure out whether to fly into Bari or Brindisi based on your itinerary.
